ERTÉ (Romain de Tirtoff) Russian, 1892-1990

”In fashion- creating forms for living people-in the design of furniture, in the design of theatrical settings and costumes, in the design of jewelry, one is functioning in three dimensions, and all this work in the round can be considered sculptural. In this sense, my theatrical settings are large environmental sculptures. I have never made a drawing for a dress or a costume without first having a fully developed idea of it in the round. In fact, before I start a design every detail has to be ripe in my mind, and I execute it without any deviation,because the conception has become a living reality deep in my creative psyche. When I design an evening dress, for example, I assemble a woman in full costume inside my head, swirling in her gown, showing every fold, seam and hem.”

Erté, born Romain de Tirtoff, led a remarkable life of artistic innovation and creativity. His early talent and passion for design were evident from a young age, as demonstrated by creating an evening gown for his mother at five.

 

In 1912, at nineteen, Erté left St. Petersburg for Paris to become an artist. That decision was made over strong objections from his father, who wanted Erté to continue the family tradition and become a naval officer. Erte assumed his pseudonym to avoid disgracing the family.

 

In Paris, Erté quickly made a name for himself in the world of fashion and design, mainly through his collaborations with Paul Poiret and his work on theatrical productions. Under the pseudonym Erté, he crafted exquisite costume and fashion designs for some of the most celebrated actresses of the time, including Joan Crawford, Lillian Gish, and Anna Pavlova. His contributions to stage productions at iconic venues like Radio City Music Hall and the Paris Opera further solidified his reputation as a visionary artist.

 

Erté's partnership with Harper's Bazaar, which began in 1915, further propelled him into the spotlight, creating an impressive 240 covers for the esteemed magazine. His simultaneous work with Vogue also underscored his status as a leading figure in the fashion and design world.

 

Erté's distinctive style, characterized by its elegant lines, bold geometric shapes, and intricate patterns, became synonymous with the Art Deco movement. His influence on this artistic period earned him the title of the father of Art Deco. Despite his passing in 1990, Erté's legacy continues to inspire artists and designers worldwide, and his timeless creations are celebrated in museums and galleries, ensuring that his contributions to the world of art and design endure for generations to come.